The Positano we know of today is synonymous with elegance and high-octane glamour. Its pastel-hued houses tumble down towards the sea, enchanting a long list of writers, musicians and artists to bask in its beauty. One such writer was John Steinbeck, who wrote in his 1953 essay “Positano bites deep”: “It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” Fast forward a few decades, and it’s no less captivating.
Neighbouring Capri and Sorrento on Italy’s glittering Amalfi Coast, Positano was once a quiet fishing village. A few in-the-know Italians would visit long before the stripy beach parasols and endless gelati vendors showed up. Remnants of its past still remain intact, including medieval crypts and churches packed with a treasure trove of stories (Santa Maria Assunta first comes to mind). Its vertiginous, hilly formation remains as steep as ever, built entirely on the vertical slopes of the Lattari Mountains.
History buffs and culinary enthusiasts alike flock to Positano’s picturesque sites and beach clubs in the summer months. Some are more popular than others, with the chance to reserve ahead. The perks of staying in a villa rental on the Amalfi coast are endless. You’ll benefit from private facilities, your own parking and a complimentary local concierge service. Enjoy ultra-personalised experiences – from private boat charters to in-villa experiences – without having to lift a finger. You’ll avoid the crowds and be able to enjoy your daily morning espresso in peace, enjoyed smugly from bed or by the pool.
In the beginning
The Amalfi Coast is rich in tales and myths. Legend has it that Positano was founded by Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, as a tribute to his beloved Pasitea.
Under Roman rule, Positano grew in prominence. Wealthy Romans built luxurious villas along the coast, taking advantage of the mild climate and spectacular ocean views. To this very day, some of those same villas have been excavated and restored – including the remains of a sumptuous first-century Roman villa beneath the Church of Santa Maria Assunta before it was buried in AD 79 by Vesuvius, the same eruption that destroyed Pompeii.
Its revival came in the mid-20th century, when a roll call of artists flocked to its sparkling shores. In came the writers and musicians – from 19th century composer Richard Wagner to Patricia Highsmith, who based sections of her novel, The Talented Mr Ripley, on Positano.
Best Restaurants in Positano
Positano’s glamour continues to live on – though it’s more likely you’ll come running back for its sheer beauty and impeccable cuisine.
The choice can be overwhelming. After all, you can find intimate, family-run tavernas serving traditional recipes, alongside a mix of swish dining establishments helmed by Michelin-star chefs. And let’s not forget to mention the views!
Which begs the question: where to begin? There’s a simple answer, and it circles right back to Positano’s history as a former fishing village. The seafood in this slice of Italy is utterly exceptional. And so very fresh.
Start at Chez Black for homestyle Italian cuisine. Set on Spiaggia Grande, this famous establishment has been welcoming guests since the 1940s. Sample plates of sea urchin spaghetti, and be sure to enquire about the daily catch.
For high-octane glamour in a legendary setting, Le Sirenuse’s “La Sponda” is the place to be, framed by sparkling sea views. Chef Gennaro Russo rustles up refined yet unfussy Mediterranean cuisine, with a focus on local flavours.
Il San Pietro’s restaurant, Zass, serves up a Michelin-starred menu that’s sure to leave you wanting more. Suspended high above the sea, you can expect sweeping Amalfi views alongside hyper-local recipes grown and harvested from Il San Pietro’s nearby garden. For traditional local dishes in a formal setting, Savino Restaurant offers superb plates of seabass ravioli and grilled seafood paired with a weighty wine list.
Celebrating an anniversary or a special occasion? Il Buco is a Michelin-starred restaurant located a short drive or boat ride away in Sorrento. Pepe Aversa’s inventive menu showcases local ingredients from artisan producers, including scorpion fish linguine and herring risotto. The wine cellar is vast, packed with over 1,000 labels to choose from.
Things to do in Positano
The Amalfi Coast is a place for ambling and getting lost. Aside from exploring Positano’s beaches, you can wander for hours on end, hopping between celebrated monuments and boutiques in between pasta pit-stops. The Church of Santa Maria Assunta first comes to mind, famous for its 13th-century Byzantine Black Madonna and colourful majolica-tiled dome.
Next door, you’ll find the Piazza dei Mulini, a cobbled main square with plenty of pavement cafes and artisanal shops to explore. Grab a seat at La Zagara for a cappuccino and pastry, and watch the world go by.
Via dei Mulini is one of the oldest streets in Positano, lined with archways, shops and overflowing bougainvillea. Purchase your produce from Mercato di Positano, a charming market with stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables, heaps of sweet treats and artisanal local cheeses from nearby Agerola. Days can vary and operating hours are typically from 8:00am to 1:00pm, though it’s wise to go early to avoid the swarms of tourists.
The Great Outdoors
The surrounding area of Positano is ripe for exploration. Stretching about 7km (4.3 miles), the Path of the Gods is often hailed as one of Italy’s most scenic day hikes. Legend holds that the gods themselves once walked this path to save Odysseus from the Sirens. With the sea glittering far below, it’s easy to see why the name endures.
From Positano, the path leads towards Nocelle, winding past terraced olive groves and fragrant lemon orchards.
In the village of Agerola, you’ll be greeted by a ceramic plaque inscribed with lines from DH Lawrence – a reminder of the poets and artists who followed this exact trail in search of inspiration. It’s a medium-intensity trek; completing it takes between three to five hours depending on your level of fitness and preferred pace.
Another option is the Monte Pertuso trail, a 4.5 km out-and-back hike. The climb up its steep stairways certainly works up a sweat, but the sprawling coastal views make it well worth the challenge.
Shopping
Rows of high-street souvenir shops are filled with lemon-shaped trinkets and summer-inspired jewellery. Casa e Bottega is where you’ll find some of the best crisp linen shirts, while Ceramica Assunta is your best bet for high-quality, handmade pottery.
Head to one of the town’s local markets near Piazza dei Mulini for authentic limoncello, cured meat and rows of homemade jams. We recommend arriving early to beat the crowds, especially in high season. That way you can mingle with the vendors and finesse your Italian without having to dodge past hordes of tourists. It’s a win-win.
La Bottega di Brunella and Antica Sartoria are a top choice for high-quality, 100% Italian linen garments. Taking a boat to Capri? Via Camerelle is laden with luxury designer boutiques. Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior, Valentino and Hermès are all within close proximity to one another.
Three Excursions from Positano
Arienzo Beach: This beach lies just off the beaten path, reached by descending a vertiginous stairway of nearly 300 steps. (Stairs are everywhere in Positano. As John Steinbeck writes, “some of them are as steep as ladders”). If you’d rather skip the stairs, the beach can also be accessed by shuttle from mainland Positano. Soak up the sparkling sea views at Arienzo Beach Club, a glamorous hotspot with daybeds and a restaurant. Marina Grande Beach tends to be the most popular with tourists, mainly for its accessible location.
Boat Trips: Cruising the coastline by boat is just as popular. Set sail along the Amalfi Coast with a private guide, uncovering secluded coves and small fishing villages along the way. Boat trips can be organised as a half day or full day excursion, depending on your pace and preferences. A full day allows time to cruise further along the coast, stopping at Amalfi, Ravello or Capri. Our Local Concierge are on hand to organise private charters and immersive boat trips. Just name the day and they’ll do the rest.
Green Grotto: The Amalfi Coast’s green grotto is a sight to see. Hop aboard a small rowing boat to witness the iridescent waters transform before your eyes. You can also visit Capri’s Blue Grotto by small rowboat, ducking under the rock to enter its glowing, turquoise cave.
Where to stay
Fraloga is a spectacular 12-person luxury villa on the Amalfi Coast, perfectly positioned in close proximity to Spiaggia di Positano and Positano’s bars and restaurants. Despite its central location, Fraloga feels a world away from the main hubbub of the town centre, offering total privacy, exquisite chef services, fully air-conditioned ensuite bathrooms, a private heated pool, spa facilities and flawless housekeeping. To top it all off, Fragola benefits from panoramic views over Positano and the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. Read on to discover more.